Packing for a trip to the hills no longer involves a few mufflers and a pair of gloves. Make sure you also have a wide-brimmed sunhat, a good pair of shades and lots of sunscreen. Ranikhet, as we discovered upon arriving, is as hot and thirsty as its drier neighbours despite being a hill station. Its body of brown, sparsely covered Kumaon hills has wrapped  itself around the area such that no matter which way you turn, you feel the full strength of its presence.

Letting yourself be swept away by the charisma of the landscape is a great way to get to know  Ranikhet. A trek through the jungle, as the locals call the forest, makes you feel the full impact of living in the foothills of the Himalayas. Sticking to our tree-clear path for the most part, we only came across a few cows; maybe if we jumped into the midst of the cheed (pine) and deodar clusters, we might have come across the bears or even, the much-talked-about local panther. Excited as we are to see either, we recommend you pay close attention to the next few days of our travels.

You would think the army troops stationed at Ranikhet, with their guns and perfectly fit cadets would double up to protect us from man-eaters too. However, the Kumaon Regiment seems to be strictly on a tough training regime for greater national battles. Outside of the obstacle course field, you can spot them in droves through the market on afternoons off with their crisp white shirts, perfectly tailored black pants and the iconic black cadet cap. If you stay with a family, like we are, you even get to chat with one of them about life in a regiment.

Inderji, at our homestay, is on holiday after nine months of travelling across the country. However, staying away from home in isolated areas over long periods hasn’t lessened  his Kumaon sense of hospitality by even a bit. Breakfast or Dinner is the best time to witness the draw of this gentle trait, as we did right from day one. Meena Didi’s aloo parathas  were irresistible as it is but even after the fifth one, Inderji’s insistent smile and his, “khaaeye, Pleeease” was enough to make our hands reach out for another paratha despite our stuffed stomachs. Meena Didi continues to lovingly roll out dough in the kitchen and boil us hot chai, even late after a hard day’s work filling buckets, carrying fire wood, feeding the cows and cooking for the family. And we, we continue to appreciate the Kumaon ways, always reflecting on our own ways of living.

So even if you don’t come equipped with the right clothes, not to worry, you will be in good hands and a warm home. At the end of every day, we find that’s what is most lovely about Ranikhet. So come, pay a visit to the hills – for us, it is so worth it.